Vietnam

Vietnam curves more than 1,600 kilometres down the eastern edge of mainland Southeast Asia, and travelling its length is half the appeal. In the north, the limestone islands of Ha Long Bay and the terraced rice valleys of Sapa frame the thousand-year-old capital, Hanoi. The centre holds the imperial tombs of Hue, the lantern-lit streets of Hoi An and the beaches of Da Nang. The south runs from the motorbike energy of Ho Chi Minh City to the waterways of the Mekong Delta. Tying it together is some of Asia's most loved cooking — steaming bowls of phở, crisp bánh mì, and coffee thick with condensed milk — and a price level that stretches a budget further than almost anywhere. Add a turbulent, fascinating history written into its cities and countryside, and Vietnam rewards both a fortnight's first visit and months of slow exploring.

Vietnam divides naturally into three regions, and most itineraries run between them. The north centres on Hanoi, the historic capital, with the cruise boats of Ha Long Bay, the mountain treks of Sapa, and the inland karsts of Ninh Binh within easy reach. The centre strings together the old imperial city of Hue, the beautifully preserved trading port of Hoi An, the modern beach city of Da Nang, and the Cham ruins of My Son. The south revolves around Ho Chi Minh City — still widely called Saigon — the gateway to the Cu Chi Tunnels, the floating markets of the Mekong Delta, and the island beaches of Phu Quoc. A classic two-week trip flies into one end and out the other, linking Hanoi, Hoi An and Ho Chi Minh City by short flights or the coastal train, with a Ha Long Bay cruise added in the north.

Because Vietnam is so long, there is no single best season — the weather differs sharply between north, centre and south. The north (Hanoi, Ha Long, Sapa) is coolest and driest from November to April, with a genuine cold snap in December and January, then hot and wet through summer. The central coast around Hoi An and Da Nang is driest from roughly February to August and prone to flooding in October and November. The south stays warm all year, with a dry season from December to April and a wet season from May to October of short, heavy afternoon downpours. The widest overlap of good weather across the whole country falls in spring (March–April) and autumn (September–October), the safest bets for a north-to-south trip. Whenever you go, pack for the region and season you are actually in.

Vietnam's length makes internal transport part of the planning. Domestic flights are cheap and quick — carriers like Vietnam Airlines, VietJet and Bamboo Airways link Hanoi, Da Nang and Ho Chi Minh City in around two hours for as little as US$30–60. The Reunification Express train runs the coast end to end, with comfortable sleeper berths and some of the country's best scenery, especially the Hai Van Pass stretch near Da Nang. Open-tour buses and sleeper buses are the budget backbone between towns. In cities, the Grab app books both cars and motorbike taxis at fixed fares, the easiest way through the dense traffic; Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City are slowly adding metro lines. Renting a motorbike is a rite of passage for some, but the traffic is intense — only ride if you are experienced, licensed and helmeted.

The currency is the Vietnamese đồng (VND), and the figures take getting used to — there are roughly 25,000 đồng to one US dollar, so everyday prices run into the tens and hundreds of thousands. Vietnam is excellent value: a bowl of phở or a bánh mì costs about US$1.50–3 (40,000–70,000 đồng), a budget room US$12–20, and a comfortable hotel US$30–60. Budget travellers manage on roughly US$30–50 a day, mid-range closer to US$60–100. The đồng is the only legal tender, so pay in local currency rather than dollars even where US prices are quoted, and check your change carefully given all the zeros. Cash is still common, though cards and QR payments are growing in cities; ATMs are widespread but cap withdrawals and add fees. Tipping is not traditional but is increasingly appreciated for good service in tourist areas.

Entry requirements depend on your nationality, so treat this as a starting point and confirm the current rules for your own passport before booking. Vietnam grants visa-free entry to citizens of a number of countries for stays of a set length (commonly somewhere between 15 and 45 days), while most other travellers use Vietnam's electronic visa (e-visa), applied for online in advance and now allowing stays of up to 90 days with single or multiple entry. You will generally need a passport valid for at least six months and a passport-style photo for the e-visa application. Always apply through the official government e-visa portal rather than look-alike third-party sites, which charge extra. Overstaying carries fines, and the visa-free allowance is intended for short tourism — for longer stays, apply for the appropriate visa category in advance rather than relying on the exemption.

A little awareness makes a Vietnamese trip smoother. Remove your shoes before entering homes and many temples, dress modestly at religious and historic sites with shoulders and knees covered, and use both hands to give or receive something as a sign of respect. As across the region, the head is considered high and the feet low, so avoid touching people's heads or pointing your feet at someone or at an altar. Vietnam's twentieth-century history is recent and deeply felt — what many outsiders call the Vietnam War is known here as the American War, and sites such as museums and the Cu Chi Tunnels present it from the Vietnamese perspective, so visit with sensitivity. In markets, gentle bargaining is expected; keep it good-humoured. And mastering the art of crossing the street through the motorbike flow — walking slowly and steadily so riders can read and avoid you — is a genuine Hanoi and Saigon survival skill.