Phi Phi Islands

The Phi Phi Islands are a small archipelago in the Andaman Sea between Phuket and Krabi, ranking among Thailand's most photographed places. Sheer limestone cliffs, turquoise water and white-sand bays draw a constant stream of boats from both coasts. There are two main islands: Phi Phi Don, the larger and only inhabited one, with villages, beaches and accommodation; and Phi Phi Leh, smaller, uninhabited and protected, home to the celebrated Maya Bay. The islands can be visited as a day trip from Phuket or Krabi, or savoured over a few nights on Phi Phi Don itself, away from the crowds once the day boats leave. Their fame is also their challenge — these are busy, much-visited islands rather than a secret — but the scenery remains genuinely spectacular, and an overnight stay or an early start reveals a calmer, more beautiful Phi Phi than the midday crush suggests.

Maya Bay, a flawless cove enclosed by towering cliffs on Phi Phi Leh, became world-famous as the setting for the film The Beach. Its very popularity nearly destroyed it: years of mass tourism damaged the coral, and the bay was closed from 2018 to let the ecosystem recover. It has since reopened with strict rules — timed entry, a cap on visitor numbers, boats moored at a jetty on the far side rather than in the bay, and, at times, no swimming in the cove itself — so check the current regulations before you go. Around Phi Phi Leh, tours also visit Pileh Lagoon, a vivid enclosed channel of emerald water, the Viking Cave, and snorkelling spots rich with fish. The whole of Phi Phi Leh lies within a national park, which charges an entry fee. The island is for day visits only; no one stays overnight.

Phi Phi Don is the heart of island life, shaped like a butterfly with two bays — Tonsai and Loh Dalum — almost meeting at a slim sandy waist where the main village sits. There are no cars: you get around on foot or by longtail boat. The village packs in guesthouses, dive shops, restaurants and a famously lively nightlife of beach bars and fire shows. A short, steep climb leads to the Phi Phi Viewpoint, with the classic photograph looking down over the twin bays and the isthmus between them — best at sunrise or sunset. Beyond the village, quieter beaches like Long Beach and outlying bays reward those who explore by boat, and the surrounding waters offer some of the area's best snorkelling and diving. Staying overnight lets you enjoy the island in the early morning and evening, when the day-trip boats have gone and Phi Phi is at its most relaxed.

Phi Phi has no airport; you arrive by boat. Regular ferries run from Phuket (around 2 hours) and Krabi (about 1.5–2 hours) to Tonsai pier on Phi Phi Don, while faster speedboat day tours from either coast pack the highlights — Maya Bay, Pileh Lagoon, snorkelling and a beach stop — into a single day for roughly US$40 to US$90 per person, transfers and lunch usually included. Independent travellers buy a ferry ticket and a few nights' accommodation and explore at their own pace. A national park fee (a few US dollars) applies when you enter the protected areas around Phi Phi Leh and Maya Bay, and a small pier or environmental fee may be collected on arrival. Whichever way you come, book ahead in high season, and consider a smaller speedboat tour over a big ferry-style boat for a less crowded day on the water.

The Phi Phi Islands are best in the dry season from November to April, when the Andaman is calm and clear for snorkelling and the boats run reliably; the green season brings rougher crossings and some cancellations. The single best tactic for enjoying them is timing: go early or stay overnight, because the islands are swamped between roughly 11am and 3pm when the day boats from both coasts arrive together. Responsible visiting matters here more than almost anywhere in Thailand — Maya Bay's closure was a direct result of over-tourism, so follow the park rules, don't touch or stand on coral, avoid feeding fish, use reef-safe sunscreen, and take your rubbish away. Choosing operators who respect the limits helps keep the islands beautiful. Come for the scenery and the snorkelling, accept that you will share them with others by day, and seek out the early mornings and quiet bays for the Phi Phi of the postcards.